SSI x Edges of Earth: Swimming in Forests - Why We Love Scuba Diving at La Jolla Cove
June 24, 2024
California’s kelp forests are known for their jaw-dropping beauty and the incredible diving they offer. These underwater forests are biodiversity hotspots and play a crucial role in combating climate change, but they have been under threat in recent years. Are these kelp forests still worth diving? In this latest article from the Edges of Earth expedition, we join the team as they go scuba diving at La Jolla Cove; one of the most famous and sought-after kelp forests of all.
Scuba diving a La Jolla Cove
Waking up at 6 am to frigid conditions left us apprehensive about diving into even colder water. Looking out at the conditions, we fell completely silent—our tanks sitting beside us in the sand. I rarely cancel dives, but this one was looking like it might be the occasion to do so. And it was not because I did not think we could handle it. It was because I was not sure I wanted to deal with the cold of California’s early spring, which had the water sitting at a chilling 18 degrees Celsius.
March is one of those hit-or-miss months in California. You can get some of the best conditions, with incredible visibility and numerous marine encounters. But at other times, it can be the absolute worst—and that is what we were experiencing as we traversed from Central California to the south of the state. Every stop along the way, from Monterey to Santa Barbara to Catalina Island to San Diego, we were up against unfavorable conditions that had us asking "to dive, or not to dive?"
We were in California to document the status of the once-thriving kelp forests here and how they impact the surrounding marine ecosystems.
We were beyond eager to go diving in the kelp forests, especially when we arrived at one of the healthiest stretches of kelp on the coastline.
Not being locals ourselves, we needed to go out with dive guides as they would help us navigate these waters effortlessly. So we were standing at the gateways to one of the better dive sites in all of California deeply debating if we were going in—waiting for some external motivator to come and save the day.
The kelp forests in California are more than just underwater habitats; they are bustling marine metropolises that support a diverse range of species. These dense, leafy structures stretch toward the surface, creating a canopy that provides shelter, food, and breeding grounds for countless organisms. From tiny invertebrates to large marine mammals, kelp forests offer a dynamic ecosystem.
Kelp forests are crucial for marine biodiversity, local fishing industries, and carbon sequestration, helping to mitigate climate change.
After having met a handful of leading scientists, dive pros, local advocates, and entrepreneurs who all live and breathe "kelp," our desire to go scuba diving at La Jolla Cove was off the charts. Yet, these unfavorable dive conditions were certainly going to be a challenge if we were to take the plunge.
Standing on the shores of La Jolla Cove, the air was filled with the barks of sea lions and the sight of giant kelp washing ashore, signaling the vibrant life beneath the waves.
As the sun rose, we found ourselves alone on the beach, immersed in a scene so lively it made us question the need to venture underwater at all. Just then, our contemplation was interrupted by two local divers whose infectious energy and enthusiasm were perfectly timed. Their arrival sparked a renewed motivation, reminding us of the wonders that awaited underwater.
Unperturbed by the conditions, the two women were fully equipped in their dry suits, seasoned veterans of the local dive scene. Noticing our hesitation, with our gear still packed, tanks still capped, and expressions of doubt clear on our faces, they urged us to suit up quickly. It was time to dive! Chastened by their confidence, we hustled to prepare our equipment, the chilly air and daunting scene forgotten in our rush to get on their level.
La Jolla Cove, a jewel among California’s protected areas since 1929, falls within the Matlahuayl State Marine Reserve. Named after the Kumeyaay tribe who originally inhabited the area, "Matlahuayl" references the distinctive sea caves that can be found here.
Normally, the cove experiences mild to moderate surges and offers visibility ranging from 10 to 20 meters—conditions that are manageable for the experienced diver. However, the cove’s rocky bottom poses a challenge during beach entries, and today, an additional element added to the excitement: a significant swell. It was clear that scuba diving at La Jolla Cove and the beach entry were to be approached carefully.
Although we were familiar with challenging shore diving, the chilly weather added an extra layer of complexity. Nonetheless, Pauline Roach’s enthusiasm was infectious. A seasoned diver since 1992 and a diving instructor since 1994, Pauline had decades of experience diving in San Diego. Her expertise reassured us that we were in capable hands. Accompanying her was Lynsey Boatman, equally experienced and determined to navigate the dive with precision. Together, they formed an adept team, ready to tackle the challenging conditions and take us cold-averse divers out to see their front yard’s magic.
Pauline and Lynsey are integral members of the Beyond Land Adventures dive team, a cornerstone of the professional diving community in San Diego. These two are from a premier SSI Training Center —run by Anirudh Ramkumar (Kumar)—who has put a heavy emphasis on education, training, and professional development.
This commitment has ensured that Kumar’s dive pros are not only highly skilled but also well-connected within the diving community. Such expertise guarantees exceptional underwater experiences, and despite the challenging conditions for scuba diving at La Jolla Cove, our dive was poised to be one for the books.
Pauline and Lynsey were waiting for the perfect moment to push out past the swell. Getting out to the deep end, our objective was not only to experience the kelp forest but to spot the broadnose sevengill sharks and curious sea lions that scuba diving at La Jolla Cove is famous for. As we swam further out, the current intensified, pulling us swiftly seaward.
Managing to pass through the swell effortlessly, Pauline and Lynsey were getting us psyched, as we were moments away from a descent we would never forget.
And that is the mark of true professionals. Pauline and Lynsey expertly assessed our diving capabilities, determined the suitability of the conditions, and from that alone, knew exactly where to lead us. More importantly, they could transform a potentially lackluster day into an absolute thrill—proving that the joy of diving is not just about what you see underwater, but also who you are underwater with. Their guidance had successfully turned our initial apprehension into eagerness and excitement.
The next 45 minutes truly embodied the spirit of Beyond Land Adventures. Despite the murky visibility, the ocean floor was buzzing with activity. While our quest to spot sharks and sea lions came up short, scuba diving at La Jolla Cove was nothing short of epic. Thick kelp forests teemed with vibrant garibaldi and stealthy sheepshead fish, while Norris’ top snails clung tightly to the kelp fronds. Resting horn sharks blended into the seafloor, and hidden under rocks, dozens of California’s spiny lobsters sought refuge from the strong surge, alongside sheep crabs. Round stingrays camouflaged in the sandy patches near ochre sea stars, completing this underwater tableau.
Nearly the full cast of California’s marine life graced our dive, challenging us to spot them through the low visibility.
We found ourselves nearly face-to-face with creatures before they even became visible, yet each encounter was a cause for celebration. This dive was proof of the resilience of California’s coastlines and temperate water ecosystems, affirming their vibrant and thriving nature despite environmental challenges all around us.
Today, witnessing ocean devastation is omnipresent when diving. There are countless dives where we get out of the water and have to reflect on what these places must have looked like 30 years ago. After those dives, we cannot help but reflect on the efforts of those striving to repair or protect what remains.
The experience of scuba diving at La Jolla Cove painted a picture of hope, positivity, and reassurance.
There is so much work being done to protect the California coastlines and deeper water spaces. We met with COUNTLESS teams over 18 days that have dedicated every ounce of themselves to the cause throughout their life-long careers. And it was visibly evident in diving this site, even in the worst of conditions, that this type of work does pay off. Despite the challenging conditions, Pauline and Lynsey’s eagerness to dive highlighted their philosophy: every day in the water is worthwhile.
Managing to flawlessly exit, without getting pummeled by the waves, we had completed a dive that left a lasting impression. Pauline was ready to go back in for round two, while the rest of us were happy enough with this singular event, cementing our view that California diving really is some of the most epic in the country, if not some of the best scuba diving in the world.
"It is a big world out there. Everyone should get a chance to experience it. But there is something powerful about fully embracing exploration in your backyard. I want to help as many people as I can witness California from a different perspective. I am happy we got to show you our home," Pauline said as we parted ways.
Even after diving for 25 years, seeing all kinds of conditions, and having endless experiences underwater, this woman was STILL buzzing about the place she calls home and the career path she has chosen.
"Buzzing" might not typically describe how people feel about their jobs, but for those who merge their passion with their profession, the enthusiasm can be enduring. Pauline, Lynsey, and the other dive professionals we met in California have mastered the art of balancing multiple roles, often juggling other jobs alongside their diving careers. Despite the demands, they prefer spending their days braving the waves, navigating the surge, and diving into the murky depths—finding sanctuary in the challenging yet rewarding conditions of the sea.
For those immersed in ocean sciences, conservation, or restoration, and needing a reminder of why your work matters, consider a trip to go diving in Southern California. Brave the challenging conditions and dive with local experts like Pauline and Lynsey and go scuba diving at La Jolla Cove.
Experiencing their passion firsthand might just reignite your love for the ocean and the work that you do. I guarantee that meeting them will accelerate your sense of discovery, taking you beyond what anything on land can offer.
GO DIVING AT LA JOLLA COVE
—
Andi Cross is an SSI Ambassador and lead of the Edges of Earth expedition, highlighting stories of positive ocean progress and how to explore the world more consciously. To keep up with the expedition, follow the team on Instagram, LinkedIn, TikTok, YouTube, and their website.