Discover The Best Cold-Water Scuba Diving in Canada
January 3, 2025
Some of the best diving in the world forces you to truly embrace discomfort: I am talking cold weather, even colder water, and restricted movement often paired with harsh dive environments. But I have found that, if you are willing to go the extra mile, the rewards are immense. My journey into cold-water scuba diving has been far from glamorous or perfect, but I would not trade these experiences for anything.
Discovering The Best Cold-Water Scuba Diving in Canada
When you think you are a good diver and ready for the next challenge, you might go into your cold-water scuba diving journey with confidence, especially if you have conquered many tropical dives beforehand. But testing different dive gear, learning new skills, and facing aggressive elements can quickly humble even the most confident diver.
Our expedition team had spent significant time diving in temperate waters, primarily along the California coast and in South Australia, with temperatures ranging from 10°C to 24°C (50°F to 75°F). We have often dove in the 13-15°C (55.4-59°F) range, mostly in 5-7mm wetsuits, to get accustomed to what we believed "temperate" meant.
We had not realized it at first, but these "intermediate" dives in our thicker wetsuits were actually essential. Or at least they offered a small degree of acclimation to the true shock that would be our impending cold-water scuba diving. Yet, nothing quite prepared us for the challenges of using drysuits outside of coursework and temperate training, when entering the proper chill.
The learning curve was steep, with frequent flooding and freezing conditions reminding us that this was a different level of diving. Anyone who says you will stay completely dry in your drysuit diving journey is not telling the whole story. You are going to get wet, you will be cold, and you sincerely need a deep love for diving to push through those early stages.
But once you adapt, the drysuit becomes your best friend, keeping you warm and comfortable even in the harshest conditions. Even some of the most seasoned drysuit divers opt to wear their beloved suit even in conditions that do not require it, they become so attached. And even though I personally went through a lot of pain and suffering in learning how to dive this way, I have certainly become "one of those."
Diving has taught me that the more you invest in it, the more you get out of it. This applies not just to the skills and diving gear but also to the experiences you gain. Some of my favorite dives have been in temperate and cold-water scuba diving environments, not just because of the challenges that I have had to overcome, but because of the incredible encounters I have had in the process.
It all came to a head when diving in British Columbia, particularly in Campbell River which is located on Vancouver Island. If you have not heard of this place as a diver, you need to put this one on your radar because it is some of the most outrageous cold-water scuba diving I have ever experienced.
But even at the peak of summer here, the water remains very cold. So your gear needs to work, and you must be confident in your abilities—this world-class diving is not for the faint of heart. There are kelp forests with curious harbor seals and Steller sea lions, plus starfish, and crustaceans of all colors, shapes, and sizes.
If you are willing to get to this remote destination, you might encounter a giant Pacific octopus or wolf eel. And let us not forget the famed anemones this region is known for.
Vancouver Island, located off the southwestern coast of Canada, sits between the mainland and the Pacific Ocean. Bordered by the Strait of Georgia to the east, the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the south, and the Pacific Ocean to the west, this island is renowned for its lush rainforests, rugged coastlines, and marine ecosystems that thrive in the cold.
There is incredible diving in Vancouver Island. The waters surrounding Vancouver Island are particularly nutrient-rich due to powerful ocean currents and upwelling from the deep ocean, creating an environment that supports a remarkable diversity of marine life. This makes Vancouver Island one of the premier destinations for scuba diving, whale watching (as it has both a local and transient orca population here), surfing, and salmon fishing.
Traveling up the east coast of Vancouver Island, from the charming city of Victoria to the remote wilderness of Port Hardy, will show you a diverse range of dive sites. You will lose cell service pretty quickly as you leave civilization, driving through dense and eerily fog-filled forests. According to many dive blogs or forums, Port Hardy often steals the spotlight with its reputation as "the best cold-water scuba diving in the world."
There is a dive destination called God’s Pocket that gets a lot of hype—and for good reason. It is a remarkable temperature reef teeming with life. However, the further north you go, the higher the cost, and by the time you reach Port Hardy, you are looking at a significant investment in your diving adventure—far greater than many are used to.
It is the dive sites around Campbell River, arguably rivaling God’s Pocket, that are well worth their financial investment given the breadth of experience they offer. Situated on the east coast of Vancouver Island, Campbell River is 2.5 hours south of Port Hardy and is often referred to as the "salmon capital of the world" due to its prolific runs that draw anglers from around the globe.
The town is named after the river itself, a waterway that flows through the heart of the region, feeding into the Discovery Passage—one of the most dynamic and biologically diverse bodies of water in the Pacific Northwest.
What makes Campbell River so unique is the convergence of powerful ocean currents in the Discovery Passage, which creates an environment rich in nutrients and ideal for all kinds of marine life.
The currents and complex underwater topography here result in vibrant and diverse ecosystems that are a cold-water scuba diving dream!
The area is known for its steep walls covered in colorful anemones and sponges, as well as kelp forests that have just begun to rebound from a former decline caused by over-predation from sea urchins. Yet, the most iconic species in the region is the Pacific salmon, which migrates through these waters in great numbers, attracting a host of predators and creating some serious underwater magic.
Keen to try cold-water scuba diving? Check out: Tips and Tricks to Enjoy Cold Water Diving
According to local fishing operations, Campbell River hosts five species of salmon: Chinook (king), Coho, Pink, Chum, and Sockeye, with the King being the rarest (and largest), followed closely by the Sockeye. Campbell River is also a prime location for spotting orcas that feed primarily on the Chinook salmon, which are heavy in fat and help provide energy for their migrations in wild conditions.
But as you probably suspected already, where there are salmon in the Pacific Northwest, there are also grizzly bears. Just a short boat ride away are the Orford and Bute Inlets, where grizzlies can be seen foraging along the shorelines, especially during the salmon spawning season. These majestic creatures come down to the rivers to feast on the abundant salmon, making exploring Campbell River just as much about what is on land as what lies beneath the surface.
Diving Campbell River, no matter the season, will force you into the cold—often between 8°C to 10°C (46-50°F) even during peak summer. The strong currents demand good buoyancy control and situational awareness, no matter how seasoned you are.
The conditions here change within minutes and require you to understand the ebb and flow of the ocean.
This is not a destination for beginners; it is a place to hone your skills and advance into cold-water scuba diving. In summer, warmer topside temperatures are welcome after a day of diving, but visibility is not as good as in winter due to algae blooms. Winter visibility can be outstanding, reaching up to 30m (100ft). Naturally though, this season comes with colder topside conditions, making back-to-back dives feel considerably more difficult.
To truly experience Campbell River in all its glory, plan for at least a week to tackle those much-needed back-to-back dives. This allows you to adjust to the conditions, learn the rhythm of the currents, and increase your chances of encountering the extraordinary marine life that calls this area home.
Nature operates on its own schedule no matter where you go—but encounters with Campbell River’s standout species require a different level of patience and commitment. This area is not one to tackle without experience or local knowledge due to how fast the conditions change out here. Going with guides who understand the tides, currents, and where marine life tends to be is a fundamental must.
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I personally witnessed Campbell River’s fury during a dive where the current changed so quickly that, had I not been with a seasoned local diver affectionately known as the "octopus whisperer," Andrea Humphreys, I might not even be here to share the story. We were diving at a site called "Steep Island" when the current suddenly shifted from manageable to ferocious in a matter of minutes.
We clung to bull kelp for our lives, my legs and fins being pulled by the powerful water while my bubbles shot back behind me in a way I had not quite experienced before. The currents were relentless, yet the Harbor seals above seemed almost amused by our struggle.
A brief lull in ferocity allowed us to release our grip and let the current carry us around the island’s corner. As we flew past the vibrant underwater landscape, it was clear that this dive was not just about exploring the beauty of Campbell River but riding its unpredictable power. The experience was a humbling reminder that diving here demands respect for the environment and an understanding that the currents are king and dictate what happens out here day in and day out.
The breathtaking beauty of these underwater landscapes, paired with the ruggedness of their surroundings, leaves you with a profound sense of accomplishment that lingers long after your dives at Campbell River are complete.
For divers eager to push their limits, build confidence, and experience something truly extraordinary, this place offers cold-water scuba diving adventures unlike any other, forging a deep connection with nature that few places on earth can rival.
And for those honing their drysuit skills like me, you will look back on all the times you wanted to give up and realize it is worth pushing through! Campbell River is, quite simply, one of those life-changing dive destinations that need to be on your map.
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Andi Cross is an SSI Ambassador and lead of the Edges of Earth expedition, highlighting stories of positive ocean progress and how to explore the world more consciously. To keep up with the expedition, follow the team on Instagram, LinkedIn, TikTok, YouTube, and their website.